How to Wash a Dakimakura (Anime Body Pillow) Cover: 2-Way Tricot Care Guide
We've seen a lot of dakimakura covers. And the anime body pillow covers we see that look rough (faded prints, wrecked fabric, that smell that won't leave) almost always got that way the same handful of ways.
This guide covers a few things we've learned from sourcing, printing, and quality-checking 2-Way Tricot anime body pillow covers: what to do, what to skip, and why it matters at a material level. Not just "be gentle" but why gentle, and what actually happens to the fabric when you're not.
What You're Actually Working With
Before anything else, it helps to understand what 2-Way Tricot fabric actually is and how dakimakura covers are printed onto it, because the care rules follow directly from the material science.
The fabric: 2-Way Tricot (2WT) is a warp-knit polyester with stretch in both directions. It's smooth, dense, and is exceptionally huggable. It's the standard for premium dakimakura covers because it holds print detail exceptionally well and feels far better against skin than alternatives like peach skin or basic polyester.
The printing process: Dye sublimation. The ink isn't applied on top of the fabric like a coating. It's bonded into the polyester fibers themselves under heat and pressure. This is what gives 2WT covers their vibrancy and their durability. But it's also why the rules below aren't optional: anything that disrupts those dye bonds is going to degrade the print, and once that dye is gone, it's gone.
The Rules (With the Reasoning)
Cold water only.
Dye sublimation is a heat-transfer process. Hot water can partially reactivate that process, causing dye to release from the polyester fibers and migrate. The result is gradual color bleeding and loss of definition. Cold water keeps the dye stable and locked in place.
No bleach. Ever.
Bleach doesn't fade dye sublimation prints gradually. It attacks the chemical bonds directly. The result isn't an even, faded look. It's patchy, asymmetric, and permanent. There's no recovering from it.
Avoid the dryer.
Two problems at once: dryer heat can reactivate the sublimation process, causing dye to release and migrate. On top of that, the tumbling motion creates mechanical friction that degrades the fabric surface. 2WT is a knit. The loops can snag and distort. If you need to use one, keep it short and low — but air drying is always the safer choice.
Turn it inside out.
Protects the printed side from friction during agitation. This is standard for any printed garment, but it matters more with 2WT because the surface finish is part of what makes the print look good.
Zip it (almost) all the way closed.
An open zipper becomes a snag point. It can catch on the fabric itself and pull threads, or damage whatever else is in the wash with it. But don't force the slider all the way to the very end of the track. We can tell you from personal experience, a fully closed zipper can be extremely difficult to reopen without stressing the fabric around it. Leave a small gap at the end. Enough to get a grip on the pull tab, not enough for anything to snag.
Hand Washing: The Right Way
If you have the time, hand washing is the safest method. It gives you full control over agitation and means the cover is never subjected to mechanical stress.
You'll need:
- A clean bathtub or large basin
- Neutral, pH-balanced detergent (something designed for delicates)
- Cold water
- A clean dry towel
Steps:
1. Remove the inner pillow first.
Don't try to wash the cover with the insert still in it. Strip the cover off.
2. Turn the cover inside out and zip it almost fully closed.
Both steps matter. Do them before the cover touches water. Leave a tiny gap at the end of the zipper so you can reopen it without a fight.
3. Fill with cold water and add a small amount of detergent.
Small is the right word. More detergent doesn't mean cleaner. It means harder to rinse and more residue left in the fibers.
4. Submerge and soak for 5–10 minutes.
Let the water do the work. Soaking loosens body oils and surface dirt without any agitation. This is the step most people skip, and it's the most important one.
5. Agitate gently with your hands.
No scrubbing, no wringing, no twisting. Move the fabric through the water. Think of it less like washing and more like rinsing something delicate.
6. Drain and rinse with clean cold water.
Repeat until the water runs completely clear, usually two to three passes. Detergent residue left in the fabric dulls the print over time and can irritate skin.
7. Press out excess water with a towel.
Lay the cover flat on a clean, dry towel. Roll the towel with the cover inside and press firmly. Don't wring. The towel absorbs a significant amount of moisture this way, which speeds up drying.
Machine Washing: When You Don't Have 30 Minutes
Machine washing is fine as long as every setting is dialled down as far as it goes. The machine isn't the problem. Aggressive cycles, high heat, and fast spin speeds are.
Settings:
- Cycle: Delicate or hand-wash cycle
- Water temperature: Cold. The coldest option available
- Spin speed: Low or off entirely if your machine allows it
Non-negotiables:
- Mesh laundry bag. This is the one thing that makes machine washing safe. It limits friction, prevents tangling, and keeps the zipper from catching. Don't skip it.
- Wash alone or with true delicates. Nothing with zippers, hooks, or rough textures in the same load.
- No fabric softener. It leaves a coating on the fibers that dulls the print and affects the fabric's texture.
One thing we've noticed from talking to customers: pilling from machine washing is almost always caused by either skipping the laundry bag or washing with something abrasive. The delicates bag solves most of it.
Drying the Cover
Air drying is the safest option and what we recommend. It avoids heat exposure entirely and puts zero mechanical stress on the fabric.
How to do it right:
Hang in a well-ventilated area. A drying rack, shower rod, or indoor clothesline all work. The goal is airflow around the whole cover.
Keep it out of direct sunlight. UV exposure fades dye sublimation prints over time, the same way it fades anything. If you're near a window, put the cover in the shaded part of the room or rotate it periodically.
Don't hang by the corners. Wet fabric is heavy. Hanging a wet 2WT cover from its corners puts all that weight on a small section of knit and can stretch it unevenly. Drape it over the rod so the weight is distributed.
Expect it to take a while. 2WT is a dense knit and holds moisture more than woven fabrics. A fan aimed at the cover speeds things up safely.
Before you put it back on the pillow: make sure it's completely dry. Putting a damp cover on an insert and leaving it traps moisture and creates conditions for mildew. That smell doesn't wash out.
If you must use a dryer: keep it short (10–20 minutes) on the lowest heat setting your machine offers, and remove the cover from its mesh laundry bag. This is the trade-off for convenience: it works, but repeated dryer cycles will accelerate wear over time. If you go this route, check the cover the moment the cycle ends and remove it while it's still cool.
Storage
For covers you're rotating out or putting away for a while:
Do:
- Store somewhere cool, dry, and dark. A wardrobe or drawer away from windows is ideal
- Roll or fold loosely. Sharp, compressed creases can become permanent in 2WT over time
- Make sure the cover is completely dry before storing. This is the single most important storage rule. Damp fabric in any container — breathable or sealed — leads to mildew, and mildew is permanent
- For short-term storage (a few weeks), a breathable cotton or linen bag works well
- For long-term storage or humid climates, a sealed plastic bag (ziplock or vacuum bag) with a silica gel desiccant packet is the community-standard method. It keeps out dust, pests, and moisture, as long as the cover went in completely dry
Don't:
- Leave it in a hot attic, garage, or car. Sustained heat affects the fabric
- Store it even slightly damp. This applies double for sealed bags, since trapped moisture has nowhere to go
- Leave it compressed under other items for extended periods
Day-to-Day Habits That Make a Difference
Washing is the obvious part. But most cover damage we've seen comes from daily wear, not laundry mistakes.
Nails, stubble, rough skin.
2WT is a knit fabric with visible loops in its structure. Sharp edges like fingernails, coarse stubble, and dry cracked skin catch those loops and create micro-snags. They're small individually, but they accumulate. The texture of the printed surface starts to look different before you can see actual damage. It's not fragile, but it's not denim either.
Rotation.
If you always sleep on the same side, that side wears faster, both the cover fabric and the fill underneath. Flip the cover every week or two. Simple, and it meaningfully extends the lifespan.
Wash before first use.
New covers come off the production line with residual chemicals from the printing and finishing process. A single gentle wash before the first use removes those and softens the fabric noticeably.
Spot cleaning.
Not every spill needs a full wash. For a small stain: dab gently with a damp cloth and a tiny amount of neutral detergent, then let it air dry. The key is dabbing, not rubbing — rubbing spreads the stain and abrades the surface.
How Often to Wash
| Use Pattern | Cover |
|---|---|
| Nightly use | Every 1–2 weeks |
| A few times a week | Every 2–4 weeks |
| Occasional or display | Every 1–2 months |
| After spills or heavy sweat | Immediately |
When It's Time to Replace the Cover
Even with careful handling, 2WT covers don't last indefinitely. With proper care we typically see quality covers hold up for two to five years of regular use. Here's what signals it's time for a replacement:
- Print fading or cracking, especially in high-contact areas like the center
- Persistent pilling that keeps coming back after fabric shaving
- Loss of stretch. The cover feels loose and doesn't recover its shape
- Odors that survive washing. Usually means the fiber has broken down enough to be holding bacteria
- Visible thinning or holes. The knit structure is gone at that point
When it gets there: the art deserves a better canvas. And we'll have something worth putting on it.
TL;DR
- Water: Cold only. Heat breaks dye sublimation bonds.
- Prep: Turn inside out. Zip (almost) closed. Every time.
- Machine washing: Mesh laundry bag, delicate cycle, low spin.
- Detergent: Neutral and pH-balanced. No fabric softener, no bleach.
- Drying: Air dry out of direct sunlight. No dryer if you can avoid it.
- Before re-fitting: Make sure the cover is completely dry. Damp + insert = mildew.
- Storage: Cool, dry, dark. Roll or fold loosely. Breathable bag, not plastic.
The rules aren't arbitrary. They follow directly from how 2WT is made and how dye sublimation printing works. Follow them and a good cover stays good for years.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use fabric softener on a dakimakura (anime body pillow) cover?
No. Fabric softener works by leaving a thin coating on fibers. That's how it reduces static and friction. On 2WT, that coating sits on top of the dye sublimation print and gradually dulls it. It also changes the fabric's feel in ways that are hard to reverse. Neutral detergent is all you need.
What's the best detergent for a dakimakura cover?
Anything pH-neutral and designed for delicates. In Japan, where much of dakimakura culture originates, Kao's Emal (エマール) is the standard recommendation — a neutral detergent designed for knits and delicates. In Western markets, anything labeled for delicates without optical brighteners is a safe choice. Avoid anything with bleaching agents.
My cover has a stain that won't come out. What do I do?
Spot treat with cold water and a small amount of neutral detergent. Dab, don't rub. If that doesn't lift it after two attempts, it's likely set permanently. Aggressive stain removers or enzyme-based cleaners aren't safe on dye sublimation prints. They'll do more damage than the stain. Some stains aren't recoverable.
Can I iron my dakimakura cover?
We don't recommend it. 2WT is a synthetic knit. Direct iron contact can melt or distort the fibers. If you do try it, use the absolute lowest setting with a pressing cloth between the iron and the cover, and test on an inconspicuous area first. Most wrinkles work themselves out within a day or two of the cover being on the pillow. A clothes steamer held at a safe distance is a safer option.
Why is my dakimakura cover pilling?
Pilling on 2WT is friction damage. The loops in the knit catch on something and form small fiber balls on the surface. The common causes are: washing without a laundry bag, nails or stubble contact during use, or washing with abrasive fabrics. A fabric shaver removes existing pills. Addressing the cause stops new ones from forming.
How do I get wrinkles out without ironing?
Hang the cover in a bathroom while you run a hot shower. 10–15 minutes in a steamy room relaxes the fibers without direct heat. Then let it finish air drying. Or just put it on the inner pillow and give it a day. Most wrinkles in 2WT smooth out on their own under light tension.
Can I dry clean a dakimakura cover?
Generally not advisable. Most dry cleaners aren't familiar with 2-Way Tricot or dye sublimation printing, and the solvents they use can affect the print and the fiber. Home washing with cold water and neutral detergent is safer and more predictable.
A Note on Why This Matters
Every cover we ship started as a proper brief, a weeks-long back-and-forth with a real artist, and a color calibration process designed specifically for how ink behaves on 2-Way Tricot fabric. The artist made choices about expression, about color, about the specific moment they were capturing. That work deserves more than a hot wash and a spin cycle.
Good care isn't complicated. It's just worth doing deliberately.
Resources
This guide draws from care practices developed by the broader dakimakura community. For additional perspectives on storage, inner pillow maintenance, and fabric-specific care, see:
- Dakidex Dakimakura Care Guide
- A Comprehensive Guide to Dakimakuras as a Hobby — the "Daki Bible", a community-favorite resource covering inners, storage, and more
About Heart Club
Heart Club is a dakimakura cover brand that commissions exclusively human artists for every design. No AI generation, no AI upscaling, no exceptions. Every cover is illustrated by a credited professional illustrator whose style is matched specifically to the character. We ship worldwide in discreet, unbranded packaging.
